Though it's not Europe's largest or most dazzling capital city, Oslo's laid-back lifestyle makes it a joy to explore.
With the fourth largest area of any city in the world, Oslo boasts of trout and pike in the city’s rivers and lakes, miles of skiing and hiking trails, islands, bathing beaches and bicycle paths. The blueberries on Oslo’s hillsides are only one of 1,200 species of plants – including 17 varieties of wild orchids growing in town. Elk and roe deer graze in forests within the city limits.
Despite its area, the best way to capture the essence of the city is on foot. Walk along Piperviken, the wharf area. Watch the ferries scooting across the fjord like black and white waterbugs. Walk down KarlJohannsgate, the city's main street and window shop. Go in search of a charming cafe and you'll find dozens of them.
When your feet tire, hop aboard an electric train, tram, a bus or ferryboat. If you want to go out on the water, you can rent anything from a kayak to a houseboat. In fact, more boats are docked at public marinas and private moorings than cars parked in the residents’ garages.
Visit Frogner Park, one of the city’s highlights, but don’t feel compelled to look at all of its 192 statue groups. Instead, pat the angry little boy on his head, savor the unrestrained joy of the two skipping girls – their unclad bronze forms magically transformed to flesh and blood. You may see only a fraction of the statues in an afternoon. But after all, it took sculptor Gustav Vigeland most of a lifetime to create them.
Another example of artistic prolificity too powerful to attempt in one visit is the Edvard Munch Museum. Scandinavia’s leading painter bequeathed some 21,000 paintings, drawings, water colors, sculptures and other works to his home city. Although they aren’t all displayed at once, the artist’s preoccupation with the melancholy and morbid makes for heavy viewing.
Medieval Akershus Castle broods on a steep cliff overlooking the inner Oslofjord. The castle, Old Aker Church and the ruins of a few state and ecclesiastical buildings are all that remain from medieval days.
Restored buildings from the post-1624 period (the town was razed by a 17th century fire) often incorporate the contemporary. Oslo Cathedral’s pulpit and triptych date from 1699, but the church is also decorated with works of twentieth century Norwegian artists.
The old stables around the cathedral have been converted into a crafts center. The “Smile of the Town” Stroget is a pedestrian street of restored nineteenth century buildings where shoppers can buy everything from traditional handicrafts to the most modern plastic kitchen gadgets.
Historic ships – the polar ship Fram, Thor Heyerdahl’s balsa raft Kon-Tiki and three Viking ships are displayed at the Bygdoy peninsula, a short ferry ride from downtown. Holmenkollen, with its world-famous ski jump, offers the best view of the city plus the world’s oldest ski museum.
Prime time in Oslo for photographers is on the 17th of May (Syttende Mai) Norway’s national day. Early in the morning, the parade of schoolchildren starts forming. Along with marching bands, the youngsters waving small Norwegian flags walk along a route that passes the palace, where the King and Queen stand on the balcony and wave. Many adults dress in their bunads (regional costumes), and everyone who lives in the city seems to be downtown. Hotel dining rooms are crowded with families having dinner and at night there’s likely to be a concert of the Oslo Philharmonic with an international star as guest artist and perhaps an Ibsen play at the National Theatre.
Hours that attractions are open can vary according to season, so it's a good idea to consult websites like goscandinavia before making trip plans.
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