Rugged Mountains Frame Norway
Pristine Nature and Midnight Sun Anchor Lofoten Island Chain
Oct 15, 2008
It’s summer in this Nordic archipelago. Jagged, wildflower-clad mountaintops slip into the sea. The sun looms above the horizon and reflects off the still-as-glass fjord. It’s the stuff of which fairy tales are made.
Perhaps no place on earth can be matched by the surprising warmth and virgin beauty of these Norwegian islands north of the Arctic Circle. After all, it’s 12 a.m., and it’s only going to get brighter.
Located at the 67th and 68th degree parallels north, Lofoten’s high latitude positions it above most of Alaska and enables the sun to remain visible 24 hours a day from late May to mid July. The Gulf Stream and its companions, the North Atlantic Current and the Norwegian Current, help warm the islands’ coasts. It is not uncommon for sunbathers to inhabit the beaches—anything above 60 degrees Fahrenheit is open season.
Norwegians don’t miss a beat when the weather is good. Hiking along lush trails of moss and wild grass somehow eases the climb. When in season, blueberries, cloudberries, and raspberries can be found in profusion on the mountainside. Berry picking is a popular summer pastime.
Against the backdrop of regal mountains, Lofoten’s fishing industry is the heartbeat of the region’s economy. Cod migrate down from the Barents Sea and gather around the Lofoten islands to spawn each winter. In the summer, the sight of stockfish—codfish hung out to dry on sizable wooden racks—is part of the scenery. Rows of red and white fishing cabins called “rorbuer” bear witness to the once utilitarian winter housing for Lofoten fishermen. Most have been turned into quaint quarters for tourists.
Millions of sea birds include sea eagles, stately cormorants, and colorful puffins. Small whales sometimes are visible from land and often by boat.
No trip this far north would be complete without paying homage to those who came before. The largest Viking banquet hall ever uncovered lies in Vestvågøy, one of Lofoten’s 8 principal islands. The hall, about 83 meters long, was reconstructed as a premiere VikingMuseum known as Lofotr. The museum is tucked between Lofoten’s two major cities, Leknes, in Vestvågøy, and Svolvær, on the island of Austvågøy.
From Leknes, take the Nappstraum Tunnel under the fjord west to Vikten for exceptional displays of art, then to the picturesque fishing villages of Nusfjord and Reine, and finally to the end of the road to find ?—the town with just one letter for its name.
Back in Leknes, travel east to the island of Austvågøy, where mountain climbing at Svolvær inspires the ultra adventurous to jump between the towering rock formations called Svolværgeita. Attempting—or observing—is not for the faint of heart.
Common accommodations in Lofoten include fishing cabins, hotels, camping cabins, and camping sites. Norwegians seldom eat out—shopping at local grocery stores is much more affordable. Be prepared to spend more—at least double—on food and lodging in Norway as compared to the U.S.
By bus or by car, tourists are sure to notice reduced speed limits and less navigable road space. Winding roads in Lofoten wrap around mountains, morph into bridges that tower over fjords and snake into quiet villages. Take time to enjoy the untouched nature of Lofoten, the expansive fjords and the beauty of the journey.
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