Past Present in Trondheim, Norway
Architecture, Art, Museums and Musical Instruments Reveal History
Norway's oldest big city boasts medieval buildings, museums commemorating rural life through the ages, WWII resistance fighters, antique music and modern art.
Trondheim, in northern Norway, is the country’s most historic city. The Norwegian Coastal Voyage makes its longest stops in Trondheim harbor, allowing sufficient time to see its major sights and visit museums as well.
Sightseeing
Founded in 997 at the mouth of the River Nid, Trondheim (then called Nidaros) was the first capital of Norway. Most famous of its buildings is Nidaros Cathedral, built over the holy shrine of St. Olav, who had been killed at the battle of Stiklestad in 1030. Construction began in the 11th century and the church remained one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage sites until the Reformation. Nidaros, which houses the crown jewels, is still one of Northern Europe’s most important Gothic structures. The stained glass and west façade are especially beautiful. Hours are May-mid-June Monday - Friday 9 a.m.-1p.m., mid-June - mid-August 9 a.m.-6 p.m., mid-August - April noon-2:30 p.m., Saturdays 9 a.m.- 2 p.m., Sunday year-round 11 a.m.-3 p.m. The minimal admission applies only to tourists.
Stiftsgarden, second largest wooden structure in Scandinavia, is a rococco-style house dating back to the 1770s. With fancy wrought-iron work on the stairways, painted wall hangings and hand-carved furniture, the building also has a lovely manor garden (Open June Monday - Saturday 10 a.m. - 3 p.m., July-May 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m. Entrance to the building is free).
The Archbishop’s Palace (Erkebispegarden) south of the cathedral, now house various specialty museums (see below). A medieval building made of stone., the structure is considered to be the oldest secular building in Scandinavia.
Museum Hopping
The Regional Folk Museum (1913). Located in the ruins of the Sverresborg Fortress, this outdoor museum contains 55 old buildings from Trondheim and Trondelag (the administrative region which includes the city). There are crofters’ cottages, fishermen’s sheds, and a section devoted to buildings from earlier days in Trondheim. Stars of the museum are the Haltdalen stave church and complete farmyards as they appeared in bygone eras. There’s also an open-air Lapp section, as well as a display building with local costumes and clothing, handiwork, implements and tools (June-August weekdays 11a.m.-3 p.m., Sundays 12-3 p.m.; September - May daily 12-3 p.m., minimal admission).
The Ringve Museum and Botanical Gardens. The museum, housed in the 19th Century Ringve Manor (Lade Alle 60, about ten miles from city center), focuses on musical instruments of every kind from harpsichords and clavichords to primitive folk instruments. The collections are extensive and include several celebrity instruments, such as one of Frederic Chopin’s concert pianos. The multi-talented guides demonstrate their sounds by playing several instruments during tours. The 35 acre botanical gardens, which were established in 1973, include the Renaissance Garden, with 120 species of historical herbs used medicinally in Trondheim during the 15th Century. (Guided tours with demonstrations May 1-November 1 at 9:30 a.m., noon, 1 and 2:20 p.m. Although a minimal admission is charged for the museum, the gardens are free.).
The Museum of Applied Arts, established in 1893, is an outstanding museum – both as far as exhibits and exhibition techniques are concerned. The 13 Hannah Ryggen tapestries, made in secret during the Nazi occupation, tell stories of both the heroism and atrocities of those years. (Open noon - 3 p.m., Summer hours are expanded to Monday - Friday 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m. - 3 p.m., Sunday noon - 4 p.m. Minimal admission is charged).
The Art Museum (Kunstforening) has a permanent collection of Norwegian painting, primarily 19th and 20th Century works by artists from the Trondelag region. The Edvard Munch room contains 25 graphic works by the artist, and there’s also a European painting collection (Open Tuesday - Friday noon-3 p.m., Sunday noon - 6 p.m. During summer, hours are the same as for the Museum of Applied Arts except on Sunday, when hours are 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., minimal admission).
The Erkebispegarden museums include wings devoted to memorabilia connected to the history of the Trondheim police force, the Resistance during World War II, and military weapons and equipment from the 16th to 20th centuries. The latter collection includes ten old military banners from Trondelag. Other museums include the Maritime Museum (Fjordgata 6), with ship models and photos chronicling seafaring through the centuries (Open June 16 - August 15 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Guided tours every hour. Minimal admission).
Opening hours are subject to change. Minimal admission usually is around US$5.00. Local tourism offices are your best sources of on-site information.
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